Here’s another installment in DD’s Mexico adventure …
By complete happenstance we arrived in Mexico City the day before Independence Day celebrations started – a public holiday of supreme national importance.
I looked up the program and noted the main celebrations started around (a very non-jetlag friendly) 10pm with the conclusion at midnight.
Interestingly, Día de la Independencia commemorates the beginning of Mexico’s struggle for independence from Spain in 1810, rather than the date independence was finally achieved in 1821.
Apparently, in the early hours of 16 September 1810, the Catholic priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla rang the church bell in the town of Dolores and summoned local people. He then gave an impassioned call to rise against Spanish colonial rule.
This is now commemorated by a re-enactment in each major Mexican town and city. El Grito literally means “the shout” and it usually occurs at 11pm. In Mexico City, the President appears on the balcony of the National Palace overlooking the historic square (the Zocalo) before ringing a bell ahead of a ceremonial recreation of the Grito.
Typically, the names of heroes of the revolution are listed and after each name is called, the crowd shouts “Viva!”. The Grito closes with three shouts of “Viva México!”, after which church bells ring, the national anthem is sung and then a huge fireworks display is set off.
So we had to go!
But first we needed a shopping centre to get some clothes for my daughter as her bag did not make her connection. After a successful shopping excursion, we started walking to lunch and saw the first signs of the celebrations – many buildings and people bedecked in red, green and white clothes and even pets getting into the action.
Walking further we passed a neighbourhood party complete with a live band a huge piñata.
We then caught an Uber as close as possible to the Zócalo or Plaza de la Constitución (one of the largest public squares in the world).
Arriving around 7pm we then joined the large throng entering the security zone complete with a series of metal detectors, bag searches and armed police wielding semi-automatic firearms.
There was an equally large street vendor presence selling all varieties of snack food, drinks, Mexican flags and other paraphernalia, eggs filled with confetti and even cans of shaving foam to spray on your loved ones.
When we finally reached the massive square, the vista was impressive with all the historic buildings colourfully decorated and a huge Mexican flag the centrepiece.
Many of the crowd had dressed up (they understood the assignment) and were in a jovial mood with singing and dancing – a very fun nationalism.
Hungry and weary, we decided to find some food and while sitting at a restaurant I contemplated how (jet lagged and tired) we would get home after the celebrations – competing with over 250,00 people for bathrooms, Ubers etc.
After a quick bit of online research, we decided to move to a smaller celebration closer to home, but first we would stroll back through the now darkened Zocalo before heading off. The square was even more spectacular with everything now illuminated and the crowd bigger and buzzier.
We then headed out of the security zone and caught an Uber to Buenavista – although we started to have second thoughts as we headed through several seedier streets with on street prostitution.
Thankfully the Buenavista vibe was much more family orientated complete with an amusement park for the children. We noted that OH&S standards were very relaxed – there was no safety fencing between the crowds and the rides.
We also noticed some unusual prizes for children who successfully burst a balloon with a dart – look immediately under the green balloons …
When we later told a Mexican friend about this she simply shrugged and said “it happens”.
We then joined the main crowd close to the municipal balcony and enjoyed a concert by the Mexican band from the 1990s called Matute, who still had it and rocked out complete with an impressive multi-media show.
Then finally it was time for the Grito and LCD screens showed the mayor – Alessandra Rojo de la Vega – being given the flag and then televised her ceremonial walk to the balcony.
The mayor started the Grito and we happily joined in shouting “Viva” along with the crowd before the bell was rung and fireworks – in red, white and green of course – exploded above our heads.
Happily – our cunning plan paid off and within 10 minutes of the fireworks ending we were in an Uber, feeling happy, very fortunate and totally exhausted (my step count for the day logging over 22 km!).
Song of the day: Black Eyed Peas “Let’s get it started”
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