Almost a year to the day after we travelled down the Derwent River and across the ocean to New Zealand on a cruise, DD and I sailed back up the river to Hobart for New Year’s Eve.
After anchoring in gorgeous Norfolk Bay the night prior, we visited Port Arthur for a few hours, where we met DD’s sister and partner, who live nearby.

Port Arthur may have a sad history but it’s a stunningly beautiful spot to spend a few hours. We enjoyed coffee in the cafe before walking through the solitary confinement building and chapel, which were fascinating and harrowing in equal measure.
The prisoners were locked into their cells for 23 hours a day and not allowed to speak, see or associate with anyone during their incarceration. It was designed to reform them, but resulted in many becoming so mentally ill they ended up in the asylum instead.
Humanity, huh?
When we returned to the ship, we sat out on deck to enjoy the amazing views as we made our way out of Norfolk Bay and up the river to Macquarie Pier.
Our friend Dom lives high on the hill in Hobart and sent a pic of our ship as it approached the wharf (it’s that little white blob in the distance).


Dom and his partner Emma were waiting for us when we disembarked and we enjoyed a drink with them in the beer garden of Hobart Brewing Co (note the need for puffer jackets in January).
All too soon it was time to return to the roof deck of our ship for a BBQ and New Year’s Eve celebrations.



We loved watching the 9.30pm fireworks from our front-row position at the wharf, but didn’t have the midnight ones in us.


There was talk of a solar flare at 3am so I sent my alarm for that, hoping for a glimpse of the Aurora Australis.
I shivered on deck with a few other passengers, but the lights didn’t materialise, so I went back to bed ahead of spending New Year’s Day going for a bushwalk on Bruny Island.



The weather was a little four seasons in one day on the island, but we enjoyed wandering along the bush path to Grassy Point, spotting wallabies along the way.



After Captain’s farewell drinks in Adventure Bay and a roast for dinner – with a few bonus dolphins as we cruised back into the Derwent River – we headed to bed.
Little did I know the damn solar flare was running 24 hours late. Apparently it was absolutely spectacular and filled the sky until dawn.
I was so gutted to miss it. Sob. I made the mistake of joining an Aurora Australis Facebook group the night before, so my Facebook feed was filled with spectacular pics of what I’d missed for days afterwards.

Waaaaaaaaaaaaah. I am still tortured by the missed opportunity more than a week later. The aurora is one of my bucket list experiences and it was literally unfolding above me as I slumbered.
I wish the ship had woken us up with an announcement, like they do on Northern Lights cruises. Imagine the word of mouth they would have received from passengers about it being the cruise of a lifetime.
One of my favourite crew members was awake for the aurora and showed me his photos the next morning. He was dazzled by what he’d seen. I mournfully hugged him goodbye and we disembarked to have breakfast in Hobart before heading home.
One of the expedition crew had recommended a fantastic cafe called Daci & Daci, where I ordered coddled eggs with hot smoked salmon, creamed leeks and potatoes with freshly baked bread.

Delicious, but not quite enough to soothe my sadness over missing the southern lights.
Ah, well, DD assures me we will tick them off one day.
After breakfast there was time for a quick twirl around the sales in Hobart mall, then we headed off to the airport and back to the real world.
Naturally there were a few dramas along the way …
Song of the day: Cyndi Lauper “True colours”
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